A useful Laney LC 30 mk2 blog.

I promise this will be useful. Not to Mesa, Fender, Marshall, Valco, Hiwatt, Matchless, users/ owners of course. Nor will it be much good for those needing information on house training a rhinoceros. But there will be a smattering (you didn’t know I knew that one eh?) of almost interesting information.

This (the Laney LC 30 mk2) is a noisy amp to my mind. One reason for this is that the centre tap of the heater supplies is grounded (via a 2amp fuse) to chassis. Another reason is that the pcb is grounded via the pot screws to the front panel metal work.

One thing you really don’t want in an amp is ac currents through the chassis. It introduces noise at every stage. So the best way to ground the heater CT is at a star point at the incoming earth. (At the IEC mans input in other words.) Make only one connection to each section of the chassis and lead these wires back to the same ground star point. The ground to the pots is best hard wired, again to the star point.

Sorting that out will produce a significant improvement. You can’t do much with the heater wiring. AC heater wiring is traditionally twisted together; for good reason. The twisting produces a cancelling effect of the heater current-generated hum. In this amp the wiring is not twisted anywhere in it. This amp, it seems, had an optional pcb, that converts the heater supplies to dc. In that case (if it is done well) the heaters don’t generate hum. But if it’s not a good supply design it will generate 100Hz buzz. Oh well.

The third problem that you may be able to rectify, is the fact that the design omits two control grid leak resistors on the first and third preamp valves. If you connect a 220K resistor from the centre grounded pillar of the first valve to pin 7, and repeat the procedure on the third valve, the noise levels will be attenuated by a lot of db.

I thought this was a sort of responsible blog. But I don’t get a macaroon because I didn’t get a laugh out of it. And there are few things more significant than that.

Supro Thunderbolt Reissue (well, the box is pretty close anyway.)

When is a ‘reissue’ patently not a reissue?

Taking an extreme view, anything in a Vox AC30 box, would be unlikely to be called a ‘Fender Twin reissue’. I would be, I would guess, in serious trouble if I was selling a goldfish on ebay that was actually a rhinoceros. You can’t do that sort of thing because it must contravene a trades description thing. Mustn’t it? You surely see my point, even if it does emanate from a cynical old git. That’s me, in case you were in any doubt.

And so, on to the Supro Thunderbolt ‘Reissue’. Apart from the fact that in the original had the power amp in a completely different place (bottom of the case), a quite different preamp arrangement, totally different biasing circuit…..well, the reissue is just the same.

But this was a repair job, so I should be at least a bit more useful than that. It (the reissue) has three power settings on a four pole three way rotary switch. This switch, in the one I had in, had fallen to bits. It effects the power levels in two different ways, and there are two different biasing arrangements associated with this switch. The first position, 60 watt setting switches in a 270ohm 15 watt resistor into the cathode circuit of the 6L6 output valves, so this is cathode (or automatic) bias, and much like the original circuit. In the other two positions (5watt and 1watt if I remember right) the cathode resistor is switched out and the control grids of the 6L6′s have a negative bias voltage applied, which are the other two functions of the power switch.

I think if I owned this amp, I would be wary of switching the power settings without first switching off standby. Just a thought. And now another thought. Tea and a macaroon. Nice thought.


A Very Quiet Fender Twin Reverb

I hadn’t seen John for some years, but he turned up out of the blue with the Fender described above.

Even if I looked at the amp from a distance of a lot of miles I would have known it was a ‘Reissue’. I’ve just looked up ‘Reissue’ in ‘Ballooning for Aquatics’ and it said ”Consult ’Skiing for Quadrupeds’.” Which said ‘Consult “Brain Surgery with Lump Hammers”.’ So I finished up guessing. It must mean, I thought, something old brought out again, much later. Wrong.

What it really means is ‘Nick a label off a really nice amp and make a new one that’s nothing like it.’

The overriding problem with current reissues of ‘classic’ amps, is that it’s impossible to do unless you have a raft of prospective customers with bottomless back accounts. I’ve got one of those, but only because it has a big hole in the bottom. A reissue amp has to use pcb’s. If it used solder wells, tagstrips, turret board; as the original Vox, Hiwatt, Marshalls(old ones), Fender (old ones), Selmer, Supro, Carlsbro (old ones) etc….etc…. it would be monumentally expensive (there are still a few of this breed around) because people would have to do much of the building, as opposed to computers.

This gets me (eventually) to John’s Fender Twin reissue. The almost insuperable problem of valves and pcb’s not being mutually on speaking terms rears its head. In this case the output valve bases (4x 6L6) are soldered directly through the pcb, and…… as the valves hang from the bases the heat rises and…..they get hot!!!! And if we heat up a solder joint a lot of times (it doesn’t even need to be all that hot; the melting point of tin is 232degrees c and lead is 327 c so anything over 232c burns off the tin and leaves the lead.) So it drives off the tin content of the joint and you finish up with lead. And usually cracked lead. The alloy of solder is usually 65%tin to 35% lead, and the resistivity of tin is 11,5 ohm.m whereas lead’s resistivity is 21,3 ohm.m. This means that the solder joint has twice the resistance when the tin has gone.

Another property of lead is that its flexibility is poor, and the expansion and contraction of the metal with heating produces cracks and poor contact with the joint. At its most extreme the joint can become an insulator, and your nice guitar sound has become nothing at all at the other side of this joint (which is known as a ‘dry joint’ or a ‘cracked joint’).

It’s about here when I wish I had a bit more interest in photos and things, because it would be useful. However….the fault with John’s amp was minimal, but as with a lot of pcb-based amps, not that cheap. To correctly replace a component in a pcb, you have to be able to get to the to the UNDERSIDE of the board. Pheeew! That can mean taking off wiring, marking where it came from, taking the pcb out, all to get to the track side of the pcb. If you don’t do that (it’s possible to cheat by cutting off the component and soldering to the resultant wire sticking out) you run the risk of dry joints, shorts to chassis and missing any burned tracks that might be under there. In the original version, the solder wells are visible, and the pcb dismantling zero, because there aren’t any. So the job takes five minutes, and the rest of the time can be usefully spent cleaning up and servicing.

Also, on this amp there are two wirewound dropper resistors (270 ohm if memory serves) that run hot. That’s ok, they drop the voltage from around +- 50 volts down to +- 17 volts to supply the chips and relays that the amp uses for channel switching. These two resistors are flat to the board (not ok), and so heat up the tracks underneath, and are also close to two 1000uF 35 volt capacitors which don’t like the heat. For an amp of this age (1994-ish and on) these components are ready for replacement and you need to have a good look and resolder all the joints under there.

Just as an aside, it’s interesting to note that any mortgage you might have taken out to buy a Mega-Hugely-Marvellous-Platinum Plated- Radar Controlled…..erm….guitar lead….would be a totally daft investment if you had a dry joint on the input socket.

To put this problem right would cost you 0.00000001% of your investment with Wonderful Guitar Leads Inc.

Which is but a small increase on my macaroon outlay for the decade. Tea.